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The remains of Co Bi out-of-town palace
The palace, a popular destination at the time, lies along Highway 5 – more than 10 kilometres from Hanoi in the Trau Quy area. This monument was built on the hill, one of Co Bi complex of 99 hills facing the same direction – rising sharply above the fertile rice field area. In the area of old Kinh Bac, Co Bi was a famous place in "three Co’s and five Phu’s" (ie Co Loa, Co Bi, and Co Phap; Phu Dong, Phu Ninh, Phu Chan, Phu Khe, and Phu Luu). Moreover, Co Bi, geographically and culturally, was ranked top (Co Bi first, Co Loa second and Co Phap third). Also, Co Bi had the advantage of being close to the town, the river and the highway essential to quickly become an economic and cultural centre of the area. That’s why, long long ago, large and important came to settle there. Lord Trinh built this Co Bi Palace because, this area had an advantageous geology, a landscape of mountains and rivers and was near Nhu Kinh (Ghenh) – his mother’s native land. Also, it was not very far from Thang Long capital. So it would be easy to advance or retreat if there were riots. This place itself was the main military point to control the lifeline between the north and the east if there was a war. And, it was also one of the cultural relics of the past connecting with old Luy Lau – Thuan Thanh – the first Buddhist centre in Vietnam with many pagodas, temples and monuments. In 1727 when An Do Vuong Trinh Cuong started building the palace, precious timber and green stone were transported there from Thanh Hoa so as to finish building it within a month. Two years later, Lord Trinh Cuong had to mobilise workmen to repair the palace after Cuu Linh dyke had been broken and the royal capital was flooded. In the year Ky Dau 1729, An Do Vuong (aged 44) died of a cold after his tour to Phat Tich pagoda, Nhu Quynh on November 28 – the beginning of Vinh Khanh Dynasty. Therefore, the palace redecoration remained unfinished. Although Co Bi out-of-town Palace has undergone many ups and downs, there remain traces of sculptural antiques of high value manifesting the ancestors’ skills and the national quintessence. Six sacred stone animals at Co Bi, including three couples of male-female, all made of precious and rare ashlars, are the vivid evidences of the artefact art. Outside the old gate are two stone lions (male-female), sitting waiting parallel to each other with the height of 1.20 metres and width of one metre - all bearing the look of tame animals. These two lions are somewhat similar to those exhibited in Pho Hien Museum in Hung Yen. The four other sacred animals are lying on a hill, in front of the pagoda burnt in the war against the French colonists (in 1946-1947). A pair of elephants – the biggest in Vietnam after those at the area of Lord Trinh Doanh’s monument in Yen Dinh, Thanh Hoa are at Co Bi with height of 1.50 metres, length 2.20 metres and width 1.30 metres (not including hidden stone platforms). Their heads were carved in a natural and delicate way, two ears – neither big nor small. The male is taller than the female in standing posture. There are no thrones on their backs. Behind the elephants are two unicorns sitting waiting with height of 1.60 metres, length 1.2 metres and width 0.7 metres, carved in deep lines with square jaw, big nose, protruding forehead and hollowed eyes; their mane stretches to the neck and strips of hair are on the body. Their sitting postures bear an imposing look. In general, the six sacred animals have a style of familiar double helix formed decoration of the period of late 17th century and early 18th century – the later Le Dynasty. Most of them, except a pair of lions, are partly ruined: one elephant’s trunk was broken; and one unicorn’s nose was broken into pieces. These precious objects have been not only worn away by time and the elements but have also had parts stolen or been broken with an aim to find gold or gems inside them. On February 18 (the lunar calendar) Ky Mao 1999, people in Binh Minh (Trau Quy village) contributed their strength and wealth to the building of a temple on the Co Bi palace ground, making it into a beautiful place of old relics in preservation of the national cultural heritage and in memory of Lord Trinh Cuong – an advanced reformer for the prosperity of the nation in 18th century. In the future, with proper care of the local authorities and the other civil services together with the whole-hearted support by people from everywhere, this area will become a famous cultural and tourist destination of Hanoi capital.
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