Cao Bang province is famous nationwide for its scenic spots, like the Ban Doc waterfall, Nguom Ngao grotto and Thang Hen lake, but more than that, for its impressive image as one of Vietnam’s first revolutionary bases full of historical significance.

After 30 years of going to many countries to find the way for national salvation, in early February of 1941, Nguyen Ai Quoc (later President Ho Chi Minh or Uncle Ho) returned to Vietnam to lead the general insurrection to gain freedom and independence for the Vietnamese nation. The first place where Uncle Ho conducted secret activities and built up the revolutionary forces was a dangerous mountainous area in Truong Ha village, Ha Quang district of Cao Bang province. He lived in Pac Bo Cave and held meetings in Khuoi Nam shack. He named a mountain Karl Marx and a stream Lenin. These places have become tourist sites, adding more names to the tourist map of Cao Bang.

Riding 272 kilometres by car from Hanoi along National Highway 3, you will arrive at Cao Bang town. Sleeping through the night in the open air and a cool and quiet atmosphere of this mountainous area, your tiredness will disappear. The next morning you will ride through Hoa An to reach Ha Quang area. Through the windows of your car, you can see golden rice fields lying amid green mountains, small hamlets with dozens of houses-on-stilts under the shade of towering clusters of peach tress, and winding streams with thatch-roofed bridges. You will certainly be very interested in enjoying the picturesque scenery, endowed by nature.

Passing a hill where there is the newly-built Ho Chi Minh Museum you will see the historical area of Pac Bo. Karl Marx Mountain stands by Lenin Stream whose flow looks like silk. Its water is so tranquil that one can see the fish and pebbles on its bed and the green watercress in the water.

Walking on the rocks along the side of the stream, where Uncle Ho used to work and fish, you reach a wooden bridge over Coc Bo rivulet, where Lenin Stream starts. The water is clear and cool and has a sweet taste. Beyond the bridge is the place where Uncle Ho often cooked soup with vegetables and bamboo shoots. By the side of a rugged rocky mountain is Pac Bo Cave. Looking down into the cave from its mouth, you can see the words "February 8, 1941" written by Uncle Ho on the wall. That was the day he came to live in this small cave, a wet and cold place lying deep in a mountain gorge that nobody paid much attention to.

Inside the cave there is a wooden board as a bed for Uncle Ho. In this place, Uncle Ho, in the simple dress of the Nung ethnic group, often sat by the fire at night to talk with his assistants - Pham Van Dong, Vo Nguyen Giap and Phung Chi Kien - about the situations at home and abroad. Here, Uncle Ho predicted: "In four or five years, the Vietnamese revolution will be successful." His words became true. On September 2, 1945 the general insurrection won a victory and the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, the first State of workers and peasants in Asia, came into being. One night when staying in this cave, General Vo Nguyen Giap was advised by Uncle Ho: "Undertaking revolutionary activities requires di cong vi thuong which means, common benefits must be put above all." His teachings were short, clear and precise as a truth, but to implement them was not easy.

About one kilometre from the mouth of Pac Bo Cave, there is a small shack by the side of Huoi Nam Mountain. In this shack, Uncle Ho held the 8^th Party Central Committee Meeting, which promulgated a resolution on preparations for the armed insurrection and the establishment of the Viet Minh and the revolutionary war zone. Adjacent to the shack is milestone 108 marking the Vietnam-China border, where 59 years ago, Uncle Ho bowed to kiss the beloved land of his country, after many years living abroad. At that time he was 50 years old with grey hair.

Visiting this historical area, you will learn more about the great life of President Ho Chi Minh which is partly reflected through his optimistic revolutionary verses.

"Walking beside the stream in the morning, and back to the cave at night,
having soup cooked with forest vegetables and bamboo shoots for meals,
however, we’re still ready.
Translating the Party’s history on just a rock that served as a table,
We feel that a revolutionary life is so much more noble."

The spirit of this piece of poem seems to give you more strength when you ride nearly 90 kilometres from Cao Bang town to visit Ban Doc Waterfall, said to be the most superb and beautiful waterfall in Vietnam. From the height of more than 30 metres, a huge volume of water runs down. Suddenly it is blocked and divided into three flows that look like three large white silks, by a huge rock. The water falls over the rocks to produce a huge white mist which obscures the large scenery. Going through the wall of the water, the sunshine is refracted and produces the seven colours of the rainbow.

Next to Ban Doc Waterfall is Nguom Ngao Grotto, three kilometres long, which is considered one of the most beautiful grottos in Vietnam. Going into the grotto, you seem to be in a fairytale world with colourful and fascinating rock formations.

Another interesting site is Thang Hen Lake, at an attitude of over 1,000 metres, in Quang Hoa. This shuttle-shaped lake, with each side being 300 metres long, has tides twice a day. It is very enjoyable to sit on a boat cruising on the clear and green water and viewing rows of old trees, whose branches spread down to the surface of the lake, on the sides of the mountains.

Your trip will be more enjoyable if you have time to visit the ancient hamlets of the Tay, Nung, Dao, H’mong and San Chi ethnic groups. Each place possesses its own unique customs and habits.

You may feel a bit tired on the way to Cao Bang due to the bad roads and poor service facilities, but surely you will feel happy and be delighted at the local beautiful local scenery and landscape, and know more about the history of this sacred land.

Story and photos: VAN CHUC-THANH PHUONG
(Vietnam Review)